Oh, Say Can You See...Why, Yes, They are Crabs!

Monday we drove about 25 miles to Baltimore to experience Fort McHenry (http://www.nps.gov/archive/fomc/home.htm), the place that inspired Francis Scott Key to write “The Star Spangled Banner”. Being run by the National Park Service, we had planned to start our visit by viewing the movie, but when we arrived (timing is everything!), a park ranger had just begun describing the events that occurred there back in 1814. We had previously mentioned how the rangers bring the events to life, but Jim was the best, going above and beyond anyone we’ve seen! The 45-minute talk actually lasted over an hour, but the time flew by as he very animatedly described the events leading up to the War of 1812, and the battle on that day in 1814 when the soldiers saved the city of Baltimore from the British invasion. He nearly made us want to pick up muskets and join the fight! Nearing the end of his talk while telling how Key took pen and paper to describe what he saw and felt, you could feel a swell of patriotism take over. We never did see the movie because we figured there was no way that little 15 minute film could ever give us any more than what we had already experienced with Jim!

The War of 1812 was one that we do not remember being covered in school in any great detail. We learned today what a significant turning point this was in our nation’s history. Britain and France had been fighting a war for almost 20 years, and British ships were actually raiding private U.S. ships and kidnapping U.S. citizens to the fill the ranks of the British Navy. Finally Congress acted after more than 10 years of basically ignoring the situation. With the British and French war still raging, Britain was too occupied to initially take this new war as a threat. It wasn’t until almost 2 years later, after Britain’s defeat of France, that they turned their attention towards their old colonies. The British had 50,000 battle-tested British troops along with over 500 naval vessels. The U.S. had 10,000 militia (mostly farmers and shopkeepers) and a navy consisting of 10 ships. Days before the attack on Fort McHenry, our nation’s capital at Washington had been captured in short order. All Federal buildings were torched, and the fires could be seen from the ramparts of the fort.

Historians agree that Britain, if they were to win this war, would not want to colonize the states once again, but instead force through surrender annexation of lands to the west, north, and south. All lands from the Louisiana Purchase, as well as Florida, what is now known as Maine, and a re-drawn northern border extending Canada 100 miles to the south was the prize. This would effectively land lock all of the Great Lakes into Canadian territory. Canada’s territory would also wrap around south, west of the Mississippi River, quadrupling the size of that country and leaving the United States with Tennessee as its most western border.

After more than 24 hours of constant bombardment, the British Navy sensed the futility of the situation and withdrew to fight another day. Although skirmishes continued, the British lost interest when Napoleon (fresh from exile) forced them to re-direct their attention back toward France. In December 1814 The Treaty of Ghent effectively ended the war and allowed for westward expansion. This treaty also legitimized the United States as a player on the world stage. As we continue our travels and education, we are constantly amazed by what we did not know. The outcome of this seemingly minor war during our brief history would have had enormous consequences for what we now enjoy in this country.

By the way, before going to war, the U.S. government attempted diplomacy, sanctions, and an embargo with Britain. None of which worked. They do say that history repeats itself.

After walking around the Fort, we walked to the visitor’s center and outside was a very colorful character named Alex running the concession stand. Russ figured he was a local and wanted to ask his advice on a place to eat that had steamed crabs that you crack yourself. Alex described himself as a “Pollock” who’s lived all his life in the “neighborhood” and knew just the place. It was just down the street from his house (which he and his wife bought in 1973 for $9,100.00) and a couple blocks from the school where he teaches. Told you he was a character! Very talkative, very friendly, and very East Coast! By the way the streets in that area remind us of St. Louis with row houses and a bar on every corner.

The place he sent us to was L.P. Steamers (http://www.lpsteamers.com/). The place is nothing fancy, just a neighborhood bar that serves food. Russ had enjoyed steamed crabs many years ago with his sister and brother-in-law, but I have never tried them. As we travel we try to enjoy some of the local flavors, and crab cakes and steam crab are what Baltimore is famous for. We ordered up a half a dozen crabs, enjoyed a couple of cold Budweisers, and pounded away on the wood table that had brown paper placed over it! When the waitress asked if we needed bibs, Russ stated, “We don’t need no stinkin’ bibs! We’re here for the atmosphere!” And it was a unique atmosphere. It was a lot of work for little reward but also a lot of fun.