Monday, August 22, 2011

Timing Is Everything!

*Critters we’ve seen on our 2011 trip so far: yellow-bellied marmot, mule deer, bison, moose, pronghorn antelope, elk, coyote, beaver, black bear, grizzly, bighorn sheep
*Birds we’ve seen on our 2011 trip so far: mountain bluebird, golden eagle, Indigo bunting, Lazuli bunting, Say’s Phoebe, yellow-rumped warbler, Western Tanager, bald eagle, blue heron, American white pelican, trumpeter swan, osprey,
magpie, mountain bluebird

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It was time to head north to Yellowstone National Park (www.nps.gov/yell), one of our favorite places. Though the 2 parks are only separated by an 8 mile stretch along the John D. Rockefeller Memorial Highway, we were driving from about the center of Grand Teton to the Mammoth Campground located at the very north entrance of Yellowstone, about 112 miles. We left Colter Bay at 6am so we could arrive at Mammoth no later than 10am since it’s a first-come, first-serve campground, and with our large unit we needed to be certain of getting a good site that would accommodate us. We encountered some heavy fog along the way as well as two separate bison jams in Yellowstone’s Hayden Valley. These jams are very cool the first time you experience them, but after about the first 10 minutes, you just want the bison to move off the road so you can pass! But alas, it’s their park and we are merely visitors…and with their size they pretty much can do what they want. We finally arrived at Mammoth Campground around 10:15, and actually were able to get the same site we had last year. (The bull elk pictured at right was evidently tired from greeting all us guests as we came through the town of Mammoth. :-)

A couple of days later we drove past the Undine Falls on our way to Lamar Valley with hopes of seeing some wolves (34 miles one way). While at Capitol Reef, Russ had gotten a great deal on a spotting scope through eBay, and he had modified the tripod from our regular telescope to accommodate it so we were eager to try it out (below right). We got all set up along with several other folks, and Rick McIntyre, a Biological Technician with the Wolf Project, was there with his signal finder and indicated that at least a couple of the wolves were indeed across the way near their den behind the hill. Rick is extremely helpful, knowledgeable, and very dedicated to the Wolf Project collecting data on a daily basis. In fact he hasn’t missed a day of watching Yellowstone wolves in over 10 years! We were excited about our chances, but it wasn’t to be. After about an hour, a storm could be seen rolling in and we all managed to get to our cars just in time as the hail and then rain came down. Though we saw no wolves that night, we did see a grizzly, 2 black bears in separate locations, a coyote, a raven with a fresh kill, and plenty of bison. In fact on our return home, the rain had stopped and once again we were in a bison jam. But this time we rolled down the windows, turned off the engine, and heard the most amazing sounds…snorts, grunts, bellows, and low guttural rumblings. As it turns out, we were in the midst of the bison rut, that time of year when the males aggressively court the females and can be quite aggressive to anyone else! I took a short video with my camera so the sounds could be heard, but unfortunately the file is too large to post here. You’ll just have to use your imagination while enjoying this beautiful sunset pictured at left.

On our second day at Mammoth Campground we ran into hosts Jim and Kay who we had met last year, and who had been our inspiration to venture into the world of campground hosting. We chatted for a bit with them mentioning that they were short one set of hosts because of a family emergency and wondered if we’d be interested in filling in for a month. Hmmmm, hosting at Yellowstone?? Oh, yeah!! It was something we had talked about doing but knew that the list of people who wanted to volunteer at Yellowstone was quite long. This sounded like a terrific opportunity to get our foot in the door plus we could stay in the campground longer than the 14 day limit and for free! We immediately went back to the RV, typed up an introductory letter to Ranger Allan who was in charge of the campground, and hoped we’d hear from him in a few days. However, the next morning he stopped by our site, gave us some paperwork to fill out, info about the job, and said he’d need to check our references, etc. before he’d be able to offer us the position. He was going to be off the next couple of days but called us Mon. morning and said if we were still interested we could start the next day…woohoo! Talk about being in the right place at the right time!! We moved to a site with full hookups that day, trained the next 2 days with Jim and Kay, and then were on our own the following two days. Our schedule would be 2 days on, then off 4 days, rotating with Jim and Kay and the other hosts, Elaine and Bill. This job is very different from Capitol Reef in that even though it was also first-come, first-serve, here they assign sites, take the money, and work from an office. I would be spending all of my time in the office registering people while Russ rode the golf cart through the campground checking on site availability, ensuring there were no rules violations, answering any questions, and generally meeting the campers. We were excited to have such a great opportunity!

Our 4 days off still allowed us plenty of time to venture out into the rest of Yellowstone, which included a day trip to Old Faithful. There are so many sights along the way not to be missed like colorful hot springs flowing into the river below or simply a coyote leisurely walking down the road…all amazing in their own right. We were looking forward to seeing inside the new Old Faithful Visitor Education Center, which had opened since our trip last year. We were fortunate to arrive about 10 minutes before Old Faithful was scheduled to erupt, and it did not disappoint, sending gallons of water and steam high into the air. Afterwards we headed to the visitor center and arrived just in time for a 15 minute film on Yellowstone, but overall we were a little under whelmed with this $27 million eco-friendly facility. It seems like there is a lot of wasted space in spite of the 4,500 square foot exhibition hall which has lots of displays explaining the hydrothermal features, the volcanic geology and history, and life in extreme environments but not a lot of interactive exhibits. The “Young Scientist” section, which is geared towards kids, does have a mechanical glass model of how a geyser works which is pretty cool. Water boils, builds up pressure, is pushed up through a constricted pipe, and then erupts into a dome covered near the ceiling.


On our way back out to Lamar Valley a few days later we spied an occupied osprey nest, but once again our attempt to see the wolves was thwarted…this time by a grizzly. He had been wandering at the base of a knoll where several people were standing (way too close!) but had moved further out into the valley by the time we arrived. Rick was there so we set up our scope and waited (patience is definitely a virtue when looking for wolves). About half an hour later Rick received a radio communication that the grizzly was moving back in our direction, which meant we all needed to slowly move back to the parking lot. Oh, well, one of these days we may get to see those wolves.

Elk are beginning to come through the campground…cows, calves, and even an occasional young bull but no big bulls yet. And we’re enjoying getting to know our fellow campground hosts better. One afternoon Elaine and Bill invited us for lunch at the Cowboy Grille, and another night we joined Jim and Kay for dinner at Outlaw’s Pizza, both places located in nearby Gardiner, MT (and neither has a website). On our way back from Outlaw’s we spotted some bighorn sheep on the side of the hill above the river, no rams with the big curved horns but several ewes and lambs. Spotting animals as we drive along or patiently wait is what makes us love Yellowstone so much…and timing is everything!

Thursday, August 4, 2011

Grand Wildlife

*Critters we’ve seen on our 2011 trip so far: yellow-bellied marmot, mule deer, bison, moose, pronghorn antelope, elk, coyote, beaver, black bear, grizzly
*Birds we’ve seen on our 2011 trip so far: mountain bluebird, golden eagle, Indigo bunting, Lazuli bunting, Say’s Phoebe, yellow-rumped warbler, Western Tanager, bald eagle, blue heron, American white pelican, trumpeter swan, osprey

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The majestic beauty of the mountains is what draws thousands of visitors each year to Grand Teton National Park (www.nps.gov/grte), but for us the wildlife is an even bigger draw. Near Gros Ventre (pronounced "grow vahnt") Campground at the south end of the park where we stayed for a couple of days, we spotted our first moose of the trip grazing along the Gros Ventre River.

During one of our days at Gros Ventre we took a drive, and while looking for wildlife, we happened upon an area in the Bridger-Teton National Forest with a fantastic view of the Gros Ventre Slide (gray area seen in the distance). Back in June 1925 one of the largest fast-moving landslides occurred with about 50 million cubic yards of rock, mud, and debris slid down the north face of Sheep Mountain. It was a mile wide, and in just 3 minutes the slide swept down the mountainside, across the river, up the other slope about 300 feet, and then back down blocking the Gros Ventre River creating a natural dam 200 feet high and 120 feet wide and forming the Lower Slide Lake. (Photo at right is some of the debris that remains across from the slide.) The nearby town of Kelly was spared this time though only 6 miles downstream, but then almost 2 years later a portion of the landslide failed, and the resultant flooding wiped out the town killing 6 people. Kelly was rebuilt and today is a delightful small town.

We moved to Colter Bay Campground more centrally located within the park, and the next night we had the thrill of seeing this mama grizzly and her 3 cubs wandering through the sage not very far from the road. We were required to stay in our car as she made her way across the Willow Flats towards the road where they crossed to get to the trees on the other side. What an incredible sight!










The next night we spotted another grizzly with 2 cubs in a valley not far from the campground, and soon after met a gentleman named Grover Ratliff who has been coming to Grand Teton National park for many years and seems to know a lot about the wildlife. He told us that the bear we had seen the night before was #399 and is the mother of the one we had seen this night, #610. In fact 1 of the 3 cubs with “mom” is actually the offspring of #610 but for some reason was adopted by #399 and has been hanging with her. (We were even able to pick up these stickers pictured at right just outside the park!) We thoroughly enjoyed meeting Grover, listening to his stories, and looking at some of the incredible photos he’s taken of the area. You too can enjoy some of the beauty he has captured at his website http://www.mywyhomingpics.com/.


Over the next week we saw lots of animals (including one of the largest moose we’d ever seen), and at one of our favorite places, Oxbow Bend, lots of birds. We’ll simply share some of the photos with you, but keep in mind there are plenty more we couldn’t get because sometimes the wildlife is just too fast or the lighting is too low. Sometimes we just enjoy the moment watching and forget to take a photo. And most of the time the photos never do the experience justice anyway.



































(These folks a way too close!)