Sunday, June 30, 2013

Life & Death...And So It Goes

*Critters we’ve seen on our 2013 trip so far:  bison, pronghorn, elk, white-tail deer, Uinta ground squirrel, coyote, snowshoe hare, grizzly bear, moose, wolf, red fox, black bear, bighorn sheep, mountain goat, mule deer
*Birds we’ve seen on our 2013 trip so far: osprey, pheasant, magpie, raven, Canada geese, mountain bluebird, grouse, golden eagle, bald eagle, American avocet, sandhill crane, red-tailed hawk, cliff swallow
[Click on any photo to enlarge.]
 
Most of our wildlife sightings are positive and exciting, but on occasion something happens to remind us of the circle of life.  On one such day we headed out to Lamar Valley very early in the morning and were fortunate to see a bull moose, some sheep, mountain goats, the osprey sitting on her nest, coyote pups, and of course bison with their calves.  We always take our park radio with us, and as we were making our way back, we heard a dispatch that a black bear had been spotted near the Roosevelt Lodge.  We
weren’t far away, and as we entered under the Roosevelt Lodge sign, immediately to our right we spotted a mule deer doe with her two young fawns.  I was able to get several shots as they seemed to almost pose on the side of the hill, mama ever vigilant.  We continued down the road towards the lodge looking for the bear but couldn’t see it so decided to leave.
 
As we turned the corner, we noticed quite a number of cars parked along the road and in the gas station lot as well as a couple of ranger vehicles.  We pulled over and spotted not only the bear but the doe on the other side of the hill in what appeared to be a stare down.  After I took a couple pics, we went back to the Lodge road and parked not far from the entrance where we had an incredible view of what was to transpire.  Russ opened the sun roof so I could stand on the seat and take photos without getting out of the car, which would have been a huge no-no with our proximity to the wildlife.
For the next half hour or so, we watched as the doe desperately tried to avert the bear’s attention and lure it away from where she had hidden her fawns.  We couldn’t see the babies anywhere but knew they were tucked safely within the sage, or as safe as one could be with a bear nearby whose sense of smell is so great it can detect odors
from two miles away.  She ran in large circles around the bear, she ran up the hill, she ran close by, she leaped and bounded, frantically hoping the bear would follow her and not harm her young.  We watched her panicked state and her tireless efforts, wearing herself to near exhaustion but she would
   not give up.  We also watched as the bear seemed to narrow its search, occasionally sniff the air, and practically ignore the doe’s tactics.  Suddenly the bear was lost in the sage and we heard the squeal of the captured fawn.  Fortunately we did not see what occurred, but we heard its little
scream and that was almost as bad.  At least it seemed to be over with quickly.  We have no idea if the bear got only one fawn or both, but since the doe continued to run in circles, exhausted and panting, we hoped that one was still alive and she was hoping to save it from the same fate.  It was time for us
   to move on as the rangers were now moving people along.
 
We have seen wildlife carcasses several times over the past few years, but it’s not the same as “witnessing” the death of a young critter who only moments ago was alive and looking so sweet and fragile.  I understand the circle of life and how all these creatures need to eat and feed their young, but that knowledge didn’t make it any easier for me as tears streamed down my face.
 
Yellowstone Tidbits:
  • Mule deer can be distinguished from white-tailed deer by large ears, small tail, and a bounding gait in which all four feet leave the ground and come down together.
  • Mule deer produce one or two fawns born late May to early August.
  • Roosevelt Lodge was established in 1906, completed in 1920, and is named for Yellowstone enthusiast President Theodore Roosevelt who regularly visited the park but never stayed at the Lodge.

Saturday, June 22, 2013

The Most Beautiful Drive In America

*Critters we’ve seen on our 2013 trip so far:  bison, pronghorn, elk, white-tail deer, Uinta ground squirrel, coyote, snowshoe hare, grizzly bear, moose, wolf, red fox, black bear, bighorn sheep, mountain goat
*Birds we’ve seen on our 2013 trip so far: osprey, pheasant, magpie, raven, Canada geese, mountain bluebird, grouse, golden eagle, bald eagle, American avocet, sandhill crane, red-tailed hawk, cliff swallow
 
[Click on any photo to enlarge.]
Originating just outside the northeast entrance to Yellowstone National Park and following along Rt. 212 is the road Charles Kuralt (the CBS “On the Road” TV correspondent) dubbed “the most beautiful drive in America”, and this was our destination earlier this
month.  Winding through the Gallatin, Shoshone, and Custer National Forests and the states of Montana and Wyoming, the 170-mile roundtrip drive from Mammoth to the Beartooth Pass is always spectacular, but this time of year when snow is still evident most of the way, it’s even more
breathtaking.  Roads were all clear so we were able to enjoy the snow without having to drive through it!  Rising from an elevation of 3,582 ft. at the park's northeast entrance to 10,947 ft. at the summit, the Beartooth Highway is definitely one of the most beautiful drives we have ever driven.
 
Since we’ve made this drive before, we thought we’d share a couple comparison photos.  The ones below on the left were taken late August 2012 while the ones on the right were taken in roughly the same place early June 2013.  The first were at the summit but as you can tell, there was too much snow to get to the spot where we had stood for that photo!  In the other photos you can see a lake in the distance, which is obviously frozen over in the June pic.












 



   
We had taken Abby with us and found a spot not far from the summit where we let her out to play.  She seemed oblivious to the cold as Russ walked her out and let her off the leash.  What a blast she had running, playing, and even trying to pick up snowballs we threw to her!




 
 
 
 
 
      On our way back we stopped near Long Lake because as you can see, there was still ice cover on part of the lake while part of it could be seen freely flowing…quite an interesting sight.
 
Yellowstone Tidbits:
*In 2012 park visitation topped 3 million for the 6th straight year, making it the 2nd highest visitation year on record.

*Highest point in the Park: 11,358 ft.    Lowest point:  5,282 ft.

*The Continental Divide crosses in 3 spots between the South Entrance and Old Faithful with the highest crossing being Craig Pass at 8,262 ft.

Wednesday, June 19, 2013

The Adventure Continues

The adventure continues as today marks our 6th year on the road!  Most people we know were shocked when they learned that we had basically sold everything we owned and hit the road fulltime in an RV without even so much as testing the lifestyle.  Guess you could say it sort of surprised us, too, but here we are 6 years later and glad we took the leap.
We had dubbed our RV “The Folly” because in a sense that’s exactly what this leap was!  But it’s been an amazing journey, and we continue to marvel at all that we have seen and experienced.  We’ve also made great friends along the way, reconnected with others, and even lost a few.

The lifestyle is somewhat different than we had anticipated.  There’s still the typical household chores (laundry, dishes, bill paying, etc.) plus others not so typical (maintaining house batteries, cleaning the roof, dumping the “black tank”, etc.), but we have learned so much.  We don’t sit or eat outside as much as we thought we would, but since this is our fulltime home, it’s not really surprising since we seldom did that when we owned a stick home (that’s RV jargon for a regular house).

We realize that we all have choices in life, and the fork in the road offers two choices - follow the GPS or follow our heart.  For us it’s a mix of both.  Hopefully we have been your eyes into an incredible adventure and into things you may have not been so lucky to have seen or known…at least not yet.

SIX YEARS BY THE NUMBERS
51,159 Saturn miles
47,610 RV miles
11,158 feet highest elevation
6,376 gallons of diesel
2,213 monthly health insurance premium
625 longest 1 day drive
234 National Parks/Monuments Cancellations (in our National Parks Passport books)
151 most consecutive days in one place
119 campgrounds
106 highest temperature
96 National Parks/Monuments visited
80 cost of an annual National Parks pass (well worth the investment)
45 cost of our C2C campground membership (best investment we’ve ever made)
40 states traveled in
38 states spent the night in
38 nights spent in Wal-Mart parking lots
35 annual maintenance fee for our campground membership
28 nights spent in a casino parking lot

25 Sweet Adelines choruses visited
23 Saturn mpg
20 Junior Ranger badges earned
19 nights spent in Camping World parking lots
18 lowest temperature
18 family members visited
14 State Parks stayed in
13 Missouri Tigers football games
8.1 RV mpg
6 St. Louis Cardinals baseball games
4 MLB parks
3 ferry rides
2 ferry rides that included the RV
2 states of residence
2 countries visited
2 shuttle launches
2 fish caught
2 St. Louis Rams football games

1 Missouri Tigers basketball game

BEST/WORST- 6/19/08

National Park
Picking the best National Park is a tough one. We are going to go with Shenandoah Valley for its sheer beauty and solitude, and Gettysburg for its significance and the most humbling experience. There really isn't a "worst" National Park.
Updated 6/19/09: Badlands National Park has to rank as one of the best. We still have not found a bad one. Updated 6/19/10: Badlands may not even be in the top 10 anymore. Yellowstone, Grand Teton, Glacier, Zion, Bryce, Grand Canyon, Canyonlands, and Devils Tower are all amazing in their own right, and are listed in no particular order. Updated 6/19/11: Now that we’ve had the chance to explore Capitol Reef, we may need to add it to the best list though we still haven’t found a “worst” National Park. Updated 6/19/12: Since we keep returning to Yellowstone, guess you could say it’s at the top of our list.  Updated 6/19/13: No change
Campground
The Fiesta Key KOA in Long Key, FL, with its view out the front window of the Gulf and sunsets is hard to beat. Shiloh's RV & Travel Resort in Monroe, LA, was by far the worst.
Updated 6/19/09: Hart Ranch in Rapid City, SD, and Pine Island RV Resort in Jay, OK, are two of the best. Although Shiloh is still the worst, Frosty Acres Resort in Schenectady, NY, comes close. Updated 6/19/10: Long Key State Park has to be added to the best…ocean 20 ft. in front of the RV. Updated 6/19/11: No change. Updated 6/19/12: No change Updated 6/19/13: No change
Location
Long Key, FL, and Front Royal, VA, were equally enjoyable. No need to rush, no traffic, just the time to spend as you like. See Monroe, LA, for the worst.
Updated 6/19/09: Add Rapid City, SD, to the list of best. Updated 6/19/10: Long Key State Park and any of the national parks of the Colorado Plateau. Updated 6/19/11: No change. Updated 6/19/12: No change Updated 6/19/13: Obviously have to add Yellowstone National Park as a favorite location.
Restaurant
If you ever make it to Titusville, FL, Dixie Crossroads is the place to eat. If you ever make it to DeFuniak Springs, FL, Bo's Family Country Cafe is a place of last resort.
Updated 6/19/09: No change. Updated 6/19/10: Café Diablo in Torrey, UT, has been added to the best. Updated 6/19/11: No change. Updated 6/19/12: No change Updated 6/19/13: No change
Pizza
Lombardo's in St. Louis, MO, is hard to beat. Think it has something to do with the cheese! Buck's in Denham Springs, LA, leaves a lot to be desired.
Updated 6/19/09: No change. Updated 6/19/10: No change. Updated 6/19/11: No change. Updated 6/19/12: Outlaw’s in Gardiner, MT, is pretty good but Lombardo’s still ranks the best. Updated 6/19/13: No change
Roads
Georgia and Texas seem to consistently have the best roads. Louisiana is the worst with New Jersey not far behind.
Updated 6/19/09: Illinois and Minnesota have joined the ranks of bad roads. Although we are beginning to realize our federal highways are all in need of repair. Updated 6/19/10: Not sure that they are getting better. Updated 6/19/11: A lot of money being spent but still not much better. Updated 6/19/12: No change Updated 6/19/13: No change
Wal-Mart
The best Wal-Mart was in Front Royal, VA, and had only been open a few days when we visited. The worst is in Berlin, NJ, and we can understand why Russ' sister is not big on Wal-Marts!
Updated 6/19/09: With Wal-Mart being our choice for basic staples, we do see a lot of them. Almost all of the newer ones are very nice, and one we visited outside Columbus, OH, is now #1. Updated 6/19/10: No change. Updated 6/19/11: No change. Updated 6/19/12: No change Updated 6/19/13: No change
Supermarket
The Schnuck's in Eureka, MO, was great. We have never been to a Piggly Wiggly that is worth the price of admission.
Updated 6/19/09: No change. Updated 6/19/10: Sweetbay in Clermont, FL, is added to the best. Updated 6/19/11: No change. Updated 6/19/12: No change Updated 6/19/13: Unfortunately the Sweetbay in Clermont closed this year.  We still considered it one of the best, but the neighboring community didn’t sustain it.
Bakery
Tellico Grains Bakery in Tellico Plains, TN, was fantastic. As far as the worst, is there really a bad bakery??
Updated 6/19/09: We have stayed away from bakeries! Updated 6/19/10: No change. Updated 6/19/11: No change. Updated 6/19/12: Haven’t really seen many bakeries on our travels so no change. Updated 6/19/13: Main Street Bakery at the Magic Kingdom is definitely one of the best!
Moment
Another tough one. Watching the shuttle launch, seeing the Milky Way from the Keys, and a big black bear on the Appalachian Trail. The worst moment....was that the awning?!?!
Updated 6/19/09: Niagara Falls and Walt Disney World at Christmas can be added to the best, and the awning still ranks as the worst. Updated 6/19/10: Grizzly bears, eagles, and walking The Narrows. Updated 6/19/11: Watching wolf pups frolic in the sage and a mama grizzly teaching her cubs to forage. Updated 6/19/12: Elk surrounding the RV and observing them during the rut was pretty cool. Added to the worst…who moved the road and fence post?!?!  Updated 6/19/13: Among the best…watching two bull elk locking horns, an SEC football game in Columbia, MO, and Christmas at Walt Disney World.

A FEW THINGS WE'VE LEARNED
1) A possum is a flat animal that sleeps in the middle of the road.
2) There are 10,000 species of spiders, and most have visited us.
3) Gnats do not taste good.
4) The average person standing on any street corner of any city or town in this country has more common sense than the entire U.S. Congress combined.
5) There are as many varieties of camping vehicles as there are people out doing it.
Updated 6/19/09:
6) Our house batteries are important…take good care of them.
7) Anything under 32 degrees Fahrenheit is cold.
8) We will again watch fuel prices rise throughout the summer.
9) We have more fear coming down the mountain than we did going up.
10) Financial experts/advisors are pretty much worthless. Once they get your money, they never recommend selling. They seem to use the same pitch as the market continues to plummet, “All my big clients are buying because we are near the bottom.”
Updated 6/19/10:
11) Time is short and passes quickly.
Updated 6/19/11:
12) As a campground host, you find that everyone is pleasant and super friendly until you have to tell them they cannot do something and then watch out!
Updated 6/19/12:
13) No matter the species, mamas are super protective of their young.
14) People are pretty much the same no matter where you go.
Updated 6/19/13:
15) Mice can get in through the tiniest of holes.
16) Good friends are priceless.
17) The SEC has a lot of good football teams.

Monday, June 10, 2013

Off Days

Black bear cub - cinnamon color
*Critters we’ve seen on our 2013 trip so far:  bison, pronghorn, elk, white-tail deer, Uinta ground squirrel, coyote, snowshoe hare, grizzly bear, moose, wolf, red fox, black bear, bighorn sheep, mountain goat

Cliff swallows
*Birds we’ve seen on our 2013 trip so far: osprey, pheasant, magpie, raven, Canada geese, mountain bluebird, grouse, golden eagle, bald eagle, American avocet, sandhill crane, red-tailed hawk, cliff swallow

[Click on any photo to enlarge.]

Cow elk sparring
On our days off there are the usual chores…laundry, groceries, etc., but obviously we still find time to enjoy the park.  Sometimes it’s just up the hill to see if there are any elk, sometimes it’s a little further to see if there are any bears, but mostly we head out to Lamar Valley to see what we can see.  Once again this post will be

Bear cub scratching its back
short on words but will share lots of pictures including an elk calf only 6 hours old, sparring elk cows, a mule deer and fawn that looked like it was only a few hours old itself, and a first for us…a pair of bear cubs climbing and playing in     a tree!  As for the mountain goats, there were way up on Barronette Peak so look like 3 white dots and not included in this photo montage.




Black bear & her 2 cinnamon cubs
Elk cow & her 6 hour old calf






Mountain bluebird



Bear cubs playing & climbing





Mule deer & her fawn
Pronghorn at Gardiner River






Bison in Lamar Valley
Bull elk








Bull moose
Elk cow & calf at Swan Lake Flats
 
Yellowstone Tidbits:
  • Up to 2/3 of each year’s elk calves may be killed by predators, i.e. bears, wolves, coyotes, cougars, golden eagles
  • Mule deer: Buck (male) weighs 150-200 lbs., doe (female) weighs 100-175 lbs., fawn (young) are weaned in about 60-75 days
  • Pronghorn young (fawn) can walk within 30 minutes of birth and can outrun a human in a couple of days
  • Cliff swallows nest in large colonies on buildings, cliffs, and under bridges in gourd-shaped mud nests.