Saturday, August 28, 2010

Another Sensational Summer

*Critters we’ve seen on our 2010 trip so far: javelina, mule deer, desert grassland whiptail lizard, white-tailed antelope squirrels, jackrabbit, juvenile Chuckwalla, Great Basin collared lizard, bats, llamas, Utah prairie dogs, chipmunks, coyote, yellow-bellied marmot, moose, beaver, elk, pronghorn, river otters, bison (buffalo), wolves, grizzly bear, bighorn sheep, black bear
*Birds we’ve seen on our 2010 trip so far: white-wing dove, ravens, Gamble’s quail, western tanager, roadrunner, violet-green swallow, California condor, great blue heron, mountain bluebird, wild turkey, black-chinned hummingbird, juniper titmouse, magpie, osprey, Canada geese, bank swallow, common mergansers, chipping sparrow, American white pelican, Great blue heron, red-tailed hawk, bald eagles, killdeer, sandhill cranes, peregrine falcon
*National Parks/Monuments visited on 2010 trip so far: 25
*State Parks visited on 2010 trip so far: 4
*Total number of Jr. Ranger badges so far: 19

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Since we left FL on April 24, we logged 5,963 miles in The Folly and another 3,680 seeing the sights in the Saturn. Over the past 4 months we saw magnificent wildlife and incredible natural beauty. We visited 25 national parks/monuments plus 4 state parks, some repeats from last year and some for the first time. We added 4 states to where The Folly has spent the night bringing the total to 38, and brought the total number of earned Jr. Ranger badges to 19. We reached new heights while on the Beartooth Highway at an elevation of 10, 947 ft. We bid a final farewell to a good friend, but also made some new ones along the way.

People always ask which park is our favorite, and we’ve always found it difficult to answer because each one offers its own uniqueness. However, we think we finally decided that Yellowstone ranks at the very top simply because we love seeing all the wildlife in their natural habitats. There’s nothing like watching wolf pups frolicking in the sage, a bald eagle or an osprey soaring overhead, a bison protecting her calf as they cross the road, or a mama grizzly teaching her cubs how to forage for roots. These sights and so many more can never be described in words…they have to be seen. We know we’ve been extremely fortunate to have the opportunity to see so much of this glorious land, and we treasure every moment. As we’ve said before, we hope that one day you have the opportunity to experience it as we have.

It was finally time for our summer tour to end and make the roughly 1,400 mile drive to St. Louis for our annual visit. We spent the first night at a small campground in Lander, WY, (that was being overrun by thousands of grasshoppers!), followed by a night at the Wal-Mart in Sidney, NE, and another in St. Joseph, MO.

One thing we’ve discovered over the past 3 years is that interesting and unexpected sights are not only found in our national parks but also as you travel from one place to the next. For example, as we left Grand Teton we had decided to take the Togwotee Trail (pronounced Toe-ga-TEE), another one of those winding, scenic roads. We knew construction was being done with possible waits of up to 30 min., and of course we came upon one. What we didn’t expect was a cowboy, who on behalf of the WY Dept. of Transportation, was walking along handing out copies of a CD as an apology for the inconvenience of waiting. Entitled Tales From the Togwotee Trail Radio Hour, it’s modeled after an old time radio show and designed to keep you entertained for the next hour with music, poems, and stories by local performers. A little hokey but entertaining.

Another section of our drive was designated as where 4 historic trails crossed: the Oregon Trail, the California Trail, the Mormon Pioneer Trail, and the Pony Express Trail. The sign says its part of the auto tour route, but we know nothing about that…we were just cruisin’ down the road.

Passing through Laramie, WY, we spotted this huge bronze head of Abraham Lincoln. It weighs over two tons, is 13.5 feet tall, and is perched on a 30-foot granite pedestal. It was built in 1959 to honor Lincoln’s 150th birthday and can be seen for miles.

As we continued our drive, we came upon Our Lady of Peace Shrine in Pine Bluffs, WY, just west of the Nebraska state line. This 30 ft. tall concrete statue of the Virgin Mary was erected in 1998, stands on a 10 ft. tall pedestal, and weighs 180 tons making it one of the largest concrete structures in the U.S.

Driving America’s back roads, and even the highways, can give you unexpected pleasures and a bit of nostalgia. If you take the time to look and not be in such a hurry, you’ll definitely be rewarded.

Wednesday, August 25, 2010

Grand Encore

*Critters we’ve seen on our 2010 trip so far: javelina, mule deer, desert grassland whiptail lizard, white-tailed antelope squirrels, jackrabbit, juvenile Chuckwalla, Great Basin collared lizard, bats, llamas, Utah prairie dogs, chipmunks, coyote, yellow-bellied marmot, moose, beaver, elk, pronghorn, river otters, bison (buffalo), wolves, grizzly bear, bighorn sheep, black bear
*Birds we’ve seen on our 2010 trip so far: white-wing dove, ravens, Gamble’s quail, western tanager, roadrunner, violet-green swallow, California condor, great blue heron, mountain bluebird, wild turkey, black-chinned hummingbird, juniper titmouse, magpie, osprey, Canada geese, bank swallow, common mergansers, chipping sparrow, American white pelican, Great blue heron, red-tailed hawk, bald eagles, killdeer, sandhill cranes, peregrine falcon
*National Parks/Monuments visited on 2010 trip so far: 25
*State Parks visited on 2010 trip so far: 4
*Total number of Jr. Ranger badges so far: 19


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The next 12 days were spent on a return visit to Grand Teton National Park, this time staying at the Colter Bay Campground more centrally located within the park. This would be another 2 weeks without hook-ups but we were confident it would be no problem especially since there was a dump station where we could empty the tanks on our way in. It was also another first-come, no reservation campground so we got there early enough to make sure we got a site that would be able to accommodate our size rig (and of course get satellite reception). Not a fancy campground but a beautiful view of the mountains, and a forested area behind our site that led down towards Jackson Lake. Plus a deer and her two fawn roamed the grounds early each morning (never could get all 3 in a picture).

Shortly before arriving at Colter Bay, we learned that a good friend of mine would be staying in the park for a few days only about 5 miles from us. Over the years Kim and I have amazingly found ourselves in the same place at the same time and always take the opportunity to visit. We had worked together about 15 years ago, and she was the one responsible for getting me started in Sweet Adelines. So one afternoon she and Dave came by the campground for a few hours, and we had a great time catching up. Before they left, of course we had to take pictures, and of course silly girls that we are, we had to do a Sweet Adeline pose!

In the “you meet the nicest people on the road” category, we would have to add Reiner and Rosemarie. They were our neighbors for a few nights at Colter Bay, and though older than us, they put us to shame with the amount of hiking and biking they did! On their last night we invited them to share our campfire and enjoyed chatting under a canopy of stars. The next morning they gifted us with some delicious homemade banana bread, some German rye bread, and a can of Swiss instant tea….all very yummy!

Early one morning on our way to Oxbow Bend, we had to stop as a wrangler from the Triangle X Dude Ranch (http://www.trianglex.com/) herded horses from the corral on one side of the road to the stalls on the other side. What beautiful creatures!






Then about 5 miles down the road in an open field, a coyote scampered through the brush behind a herd of grazing horses. We watched for about 20 min. as he ran and pounced, the horses seeming totally oblivious to his very existence.

One day we made the nearly 100 mile round-trip drive to the Old Faithful area in Yellowstone since we had skipped it during our earlier visit. We arrived about 20 min. before Old Faithful’s scheduled eruption, and we have to say that it went higher and was more forceful than the two times we had seen it the year before…simply amazing. Afterwards we walked over to the Old Faithful Inn, built in 1904 and one of the few remaining log hotels in the U.S. We sat in the lobby for a bit with its 65 ft. high ceilings just people watching. As we left to head back to the car, Grand Geyser was beginning to erupt. It is considered the tallest predictable geyser in the world, sometimes reaching heights up to 200 ft. with bursts lasting 9 – 12 minutes.
As we made our way back to Grand Teton, we stopped at Isa Lake which runs under and on both sides of the road at one of the Continental Divide passes. Every time we have passed it, we’ve been amazed at the abundant lily-pads thriving at an elevation of nearly 8,300 ft.…a beautiful and serene sight.











We also made stops at the Kepler Cascades (photo at left) and Lewis Falls (at right), neither of which drop very far but are still spectacular to view. There's a wooden deck above the river at Kepler Cascades that affords you an incredible view of the falls, and at Lewis Falls there's a short hiking trail that takes you towards the top. We experienced both.

On another day we visited the Laurance S. Rockefeller Preserve located within Grand Teton National Park. The interpretive center is situated in such a way as to capture exquisite views of the Teton Range but in our opinion has a very sparse visitor center. The main attraction at the Preserve is the 8 miles of self-guided woodland trails that wind through the 1,106 acres that lead to Phelps Lake. These are so popular that the small parking lot fills by 10a.m. nearly everyday, and this day was no exception…we got one of the last spots. Mr. Rockefeller’s vision had been to create a place where visitors could “experience a spiritual and emotional connection to the extraordinary natural beauty of Phelps Lake and the Teton Range.” Though we chose not to take any of the hikes, we still enjoyed the tranquil surrounding beauty from the center.

After leaving the Preserve, we made our way to the Menor’s Ferry Historic District (http://www.nps.gov/grte/historyculture/menors.htm). William D. Menor came to this valley in 1894, creating his homestead, and constructing the ferry for early settlers to the area. The ferry itself is a refurbished replica that crosses the Snake River, and normally free rides are offered daily but unfortunately not the day we visited. The nearby white-washed cabin is his original homestead cabin and was constructed in 3 stages. As you step inside the east wing of the cabin, you step back in time to the general store he opened in 1905. There are all sorts of merchandise including old-fashioned clothing, handmade dolls, tins of food, soaps, candies, cookbooks, and so much more. Bob, who is also a full-time RVer, has worked here for the Grand Teton Assn. the past 5 years and not only runs the store, but acts as interpreter and historian. The central wing of the cabin added in 1895 had been the kitchen and pantry, while the east wing built in 1894 served as the family living area, all furnished as in they were back then.







We were disappointed that we didn’t see as much wildlife during these 2 weeks...guess we'd been spoiled during the previous 5 weeks while in Grand Teton and Yellowstone. The rangers believe it was due to the fact that the weather had turned somewhat warmer, and many of the animals had moved up into the hills for cooler climates. However, it wasn’t a total loss. Besides those mentioned above, we spotted a lone bison in an unexpected place, and one evening we noticed a peregrine falcon perched near the top of a bare tree and then watched as it soared across the darkening sky. On a couple other evenings we ventured over to the Oxbow Bend turnout area above the Snake River and were delighted to see an osprey make several diving attempts at catching a fish, a couple elk, a moose, beavers (did you know they can weigh up to 60 lbs.??), and the best sighting at this location…a wolf on the riverbank trying to catch some sort of prey and ending up in the water! Couldn’t get decent pictures of any of these as the light was fading fast, and one night it was even raining, but the images are forever etched in our minds.

Thursday, August 12, 2010

Yellowstone: In Search of Critters

(To catch up this is the 2nd of 2 posts on our Yellowstone trip.)
*Critters we’ve seen on our 2010 trip so far: javelina, mule deer, desert grassland whiptail lizard, white-tailed antelope squirrels, jackrabbit, juvenile Chuckwalla, Great Basin collared lizard, bats, llamas, Utah prairie dogs, chipmunks, coyote, yellow-bellied marmot, moose, beaver, elk, pronghorn, river otters, bison (buffalo), wolves, grizzly bear, bighorn sheep, black bear
*Birds we’ve seen on our 2010 trip so far: white-wing dove, ravens, Gamble’s quail, western tanager, roadrunner, violet-green swallow, California condor, great blue heron, mountain bluebird, wild turkey, black-chinned hummingbird, juniper titmouse, magpie, osprey, Canada geese, bank swallow, common mergansers, chipping sparrow, American white pelican, Great blue heron, red-tailed hawk, bald eagles,
sandhill cranes, killdeer
*National Parks/Monuments visited on 2010 trip so far: 24
*State Parks visited on 2010 trip so far: 4
*Total number of Jr. Ranger badges so far: 19

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Each day we ventured out in search of critters and were rarely disappointed in what we ran across. We ventured to Slough Creek (pronounced sloo) in the Lamar Valley in search of wolves on 5 different occasions. This 50-mile roundtrip drive not only allowed for the viewing of the small pack of 7 wolves including 4 pups, but along the way, either there or back, we always seemed to stumble across a grizzly grazing along the side of the road.

The viewing of the wolves was difficult at times because of the one mile distance across the valley to their den. The first night we found our binoculars inadequate but also found that others at the location with spotting scopes were very generous in allowing others to view the wolves. The following day we thought about our Galileo telescope, and pulling out the manual discovered that terrestrial (land) viewing was possible. After experimenting at our campground, we found the telescope offered a great opportunity to view wildlife up to 45 times closer than the naked eye. Although not quite as good as the $2,000 spotting scope, our $100 telescope worked great for zeroing in on the wolves as well as when we used it on grizzlies and eagles.




















On 6 occasions we saw at least one grizzly bear on our daily travels. The night before we left Yellowstone in the Grizzly Lake area of the park, we spotted a mama and her 2 cubs. Just off the road and only separated by a small creek, we were able to watch this amazing sight as we walked down the road for about half a mile and finally returned to our car as sunlight faded for the day.

The next morning on our way back to Grand Teton, we spotted a mama grizzly and her 4 cubs near Swan Lake. Again they were right off the road and we were allowed a beautiful view of them foraging through the sage from the comforts of our RV. This was quite a sight as this female has become quite famous in the park area as having 4 young is quite unusual. They had not been sighted for awhile and some expressed concern that perhaps not all 4 had survived, so it was quite exciting to see them on our way out of the park (could only get 2 cubs in the picture). A little further down the road, we were caught in a traffic jam as a bison family took their morning stroll down the middle of the road.









All in all, we saw:
· 7 wolves on 5 different occasions (3 adults + 4 pups)
· 12 grizzlies on 6 different occasions (6 adults + 6 cubs)
· 9 black bears on 7 different occasions (7 adults + 2 cubs)
· 12 bighorn sheep (including lambs) on one occasion + 3 on another
· 5 coyotes on 5 different occasions
· 6 mule deer on 4 different occasions
· 4 bald eagles on 3 different occasions (3 adults + 1 juvenile)
· Osprey, Canada geese, sandhill cranes almost daily
· 1 killdeer
· 1 river otter
· elk, bison, pronghorn daily