The Rolling Hills of West Virginia

While in Gettysburg, we needed to get the tow light cable repaired. For those who don’t know, this cable connects from the RV to the car and runs the signal and brake lights on the car. At the campground, Russ met a guy a few sites down from us who as it turns out runs the mobile Middle Creek RV Service with a buddy of his. Rick and Lance came over to check out the situation and ended up spending a couple hours on something that they thought would be pretty simple. Three mini-fuses did need to be replaced but that didn’t solve the problem. Bottom line, after taking the cable back to the shop, returning the next night, and spending another couple hours, they finally got everything working. They took it as quite a challenge, and if you’re ever in the area in need of their services, we’d highly recommend their work and professionalism. They don’t have a website yet, but you can reach them at 717-337-3405.

Shortly after leaving Gettysburg on Thurs., it began raining and continued to do so the rest of the day on the way to Harpers Ferry and all of the next. It’s always such a joy to set up in the rain (not!) but thankfully we haven’t had to do it often. It cleared up for a beautiful weekend though. We stayed at the same KOA as two years ago which is located just outside the entrance to Harpers Ferry National Historical Park (http://www.nps.gov/hafe). The rain gave us a little time to kick back and relax from the previous busy week plus it was 50s Weekend with all sorts of activities including a sock hop! The campground still has the small Civil War museum with the cannon outside which they fire off on Sat. evenings, and it appears they’ve put a lot of work into the campground since last we were here that includes a pet exercise area.

Sat. was a beautiful day, and we headed over to the park but took the back roads into town. I won’t go into a lot of detail of the town’s history as you can check that out on our blog entry in Aug. 2007. It was National Trails Day celebrating America’s hiking heritage with several planned ranger guided walks plus a tent with special hiking exhibits. We chatted with a guy with the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club (http://www.patc.net/) whose purpose is to maintain the trails in the Mid-Atlantic region, and in 2008 they logged over 83,000 hours of volunteer service! Further down the line we began chatting with hikers Dee and Luann Drinkard who are with the Appalachian Trail Conservancy (http://www.appalachiantrail.org/ ), an organization whose sole purpose is to protect and promote the AT. They are hoping to one day fulltime RV as well, and we thoroughly enjoyed talking with them, us learning more about the ATC and them about fulltiming. Looking at a map they had, Russ calculated that on our travels we’ve probably crossed the AT about 20 - 30 times by car or on foot, most of the time without even realizing it.

When we arrived in Lower Town Harpers Ferry, we decided to take the walk up to Jefferson’s Rock which we had not done last time. Your walk begins by climbing these stone steps which are part of the Appalachian Trail. At the top is St. Peter’s Catholic Church, and continuing another couple hundred yards brought us to our destination. What a view from there! Thomas Jefferson was said to utter that it “was worth a voyage across the Atlantic”.

The town is located where the Potomac and Shenandoah Rivers converge amidst the rolling hills of the Blue Ridge Mountains. The red sandstone supports you see in the picture were put in place in 1860 so as not to endanger the lives and property of the town below. By the way, did I mention how terrible the gnats were at the campground and in the entire area? You can probably tell by the expression on my face!

After returning back down, we took one of the ranger guided walks telling the history of the C & O Canal. The second stop was where the two rivers converge and covers three states. In the picture on the left, I am standing in WV, the hills on the left are MD and those on the right are VA…pretty cool, huh? Our walk continued across the footbridge towards the canal, but we stopped admiring the scenery, watching some colorful kayakers, and never continued down the steps with the rest of the group. We even saw trees growing out of rock in the middle of the river, something that always amazes us.

On our way back an Amtrak train passed on the track across from us, and closer to town we paused to listen to a dedication ceremony being done that day for some recent improvements to the AT. That night we watched the full moon rise over the hills from the front window of our RV…could anything be more relaxing and beautiful?

The next day we visited the nearby flea market. We always enjoy walking through, seeing what everyone’s got to sell, and generally save lots of money because we don’t have a house to put stuff in! But we always end up spending a few bucks on this and that, and today was no exception. From here we again drove the backroads to town, venturing along some of the side streets, enjoying the small town atmosphere, and taking in the breathtaking beauty of the area. On our drive back to the campground we passed the ruins of the Shenandoah Pulp Factory. Built in the late 1800s, it closed in 1935 and was destroyed a year later in a massive flood. And as you can see in the photo on the left, we weren’t the only visitors that day!

On a couple medical side notes: we thought we’d give you an update on our friend Scott. His chemo and radiation treatments are done, and now he’s spending the next several weeks rebuilding his strength before surgery. The doctors seemed to be pleased with his progress and he’s actually able to eat again. His minimally invasive surgery is scheduled for June 26, and at that time they will remove his entire esophagus through three slits, and pull his stomach up to attach to his throat pipe. He’ll be in the hospital two weeks, then a couple weeks of recovery, and he’ll have to eat smaller meals throughout the day, he’ll be back to normal. I know he’ll appreciate your thoughts and prayers for a successful operation and speedy recovery.

Russ’ mom is doing okay, having some good days and some not so good. She was moved into a rehab center/skilled nursing facility a few days after we left, and they’ve had her doing some walking therapy, getting her up and about more. Unfortunately, the extra moving around has caused her ankles to swell really bad for some reason, and she still has some sort of infection in her body (her white count is up) so they’ve started her on a new antibiotic. The doctors also think she has been experiencing mini-strokes so we pray that she remains comfortable and in no pain.

Tomorrow we start our trek out West for what we’re dubbing our National Park Tour. Stay tuned!

A Work of Art

We spent the next four days doing the driving tour of the battlefield along with three ranger guided walks and a full day at the new visitor’s center and museum. Rather than go into great detail, you can refer to our Gettysburg visit two years ago in our August 2007 blog.

One of the things not available during our visit two years ago was the Cyclorama, which at that time was being restored (a job that took nearly five years). Well, let us tell ya that they did an incredible job restoring this painting, and both of us were shocked by the sheer magnitude of it.

The work’s creator, Frenchman Paul Philippoteaux, took great pains to ensure the historical accuracy of his project as he spent time interviewing survivors, researching uniforms and military strategy, and hired a photographer to record the landscape. The painting was done in 1883 of Pickett’s Charge, taking him and his assistants only one year to complete. This may seem like a long time for one painting, but this one painting is 377 feet in circumference and 42 feet tall!

The diorama leading up to the painting blurs the boundaries between the two-dimensional canvas and three-dimensional reality. For instance he painted a well with a tripod of sticks above it holding the rope and pulley for a bucket, but he purposefully omitted one leg of the tripod; that stick was real and part of the diorama as are part of the stone wall and wood fence to the right of the well. This all being viewed from an elevated viewing platform was simply amazing. Added to this was a surround sound audio including simulated rifle and artillery fire. In addition the use of strobe lights, smoke, and other lighting made the painting come to life. We almost felt as if we were right there in the battle.

If you are ever in the area, this is a must see! The photos here do not do it justice. For more info on the Cyclorama, check out this website: http://www.nps.gov/gett/parknews/gettysburg-cyclorama-comes-to-life.htm.

The new visitor’s center is state-of-the-art, and we were told that it was built with private donations. They do charge $7.50 to view the Cyclorama as well as the museum. We opted for the 2-day pass, costing $10.00, and were not disappointed in our investment. Not only were we able to break up our museum visit into two days, but a two day pass allows you to view the Cyclorama as often as you wish. We actually saw it five times, and the fifth time was just as exciting as the first.

One thing we’d like to mention is the fine job that our National Park Service employees do in explaining various details and little known facts on the ranger guided walks. They do a great job of storytelling and offer a wealth of knowledge, always willing to answer any question and offer helpful hints to help everyone enjoy our park system.

Living History

Nearly two years ago, shortly after we started this adventure, one of our first destinations was Gettysburg, PA, and we had decided to return for another visit this year. Besides being a beautiful area, it’s a fascinating place full of history, more than can be absorbed in just a couple of hours or days. Our stay last time was four days, but generally the day of arrival is pretty much wasted unless you can check-in early and the drive hasn’t been too far. This time we planned to stay a week, and the campground we chose this year is only about a mile from Gettysburg National Military Park. Appropriately named Gettysburg Battlefield Resort, it is large and quite nice (though they do need to fix some of those pot holes in the roads). Beginning in May each weekend has its own theme, and this one was Wild West Weekend. We didn’t participate in any of the activities (most seemed geared towards kids), but did venture up to the pavilion Sat. night to check out the entertainment for a short time. As you can see by the picture, there were quite a few line dancers.

We had learned from the National Park Service website that there would be two events on the battlefield the weekend we’d be in town. Normally I would refer to these as re-enactments, but as we have learned in our travels, that term is generally used only for actual battle re-enactments and those cannot be performed on federal lands. Instead they are referred to as “Living History” presentations, and the various units attempt to accurately portray tactical demonstrations, military drills, and camp life. These units consist of men and women who have a deep affection for preserving history and paying tribute to the gallant men who served in the Civil War, and they are generally passionately dedicated to a specific side.

The first one we encountered on Sat. was the 6th New Hampshire Union Infantry (http://www.6nhv.org/) who were camped in the park at Spangler’s Spring. There was to be a musket firing demonstration at 10am, so we arrived early to walk around the camp and visit with the “soldiers”. It’s always interesting and enlightening to talk to these folks. All have military ranks within their units, and Second Lt. Harry Bedford came up to welcome us and let us know about the upcoming demonstration. Wives and even children sometimes accompany the soldiers and are actually part of the units, dressing in period dress as well. All wear and use authentic reproductions of the clothing, equipment, and belongings of the time. Many are collectors of Civil War memorabilia and experts on the period, ready to discuss, explain, and enlighten.

It was time for the men to fall in for the demonstration and march across the street to the open field. The park ranger welcomed us and introduced Capt. Walter Dewey who proceeded to explain the inner workings of the infantry. They are not allowed to use live ammunition but do use black gun powder with blanks so the noise when they fire is loud! After three more firing demonstrations, they charged towards us scaring one little boy to tears. He was fine…it was just sudden and a little scary.

After returning to their camp, they were available to chat and answer questions. While we were standing there, a couple of the guys began re-stacking some of the muskets. One of the guys thrust two of them at Russ and said “Here, hold these” while they proceeded to get the other two set in formation. When they were done, we asked a couple questions about how soldiers knew which rifle was theirs (they are arranged by height as is the regimental line), and spent the next 20 min. or so chatting with Private Peter Matthews. He showed us the inside of his cartridge pouch/box that holds the black gun powder explaining its usage, and then explained the many differences in uniforms worn by the Union soldiers. The pants are not always the traditional blue you generally think of, and underneath their blue coats they might wear just about anything. In Peter’s case he said the plaid shirt he was wearing might have been one the soldier would have taken off a farmer’s clothesline when his white issued shirt was damaged. The green vest or waistcoat might have been something he admired in a store or someone from home sent him. Everything the re-enactors wear is authentic from the time period and would be what a soldier of the time would have worn. He showed us his pup tent where he had slept the night before and even offered to share a bite of his hardtack that he nibbles on throughout the day. Uh, thanks, but no thanks. It’s basically just a simple square biscuit made from flour, water, and salt that is hard as a rock. It’s what the soldiers were able to make in the camp quickly and easily and it would last seemingly forever. Peter is not only involved with Civil War re-enactments and living histories, but also World War II and the American Revolution. One thing he told us that surprised us is that kids attending the middle school where he did are not being taught any history. It is simply not a subject at that school any longer, and we all agreed it was definitely a shame. History does have a tendency to repeat itself.

We decided we had tied up enough of Peter’s time and bid him well as we proceeded to leave. We had originally planned to make it to the 11am presentation on the other side of the park, but on our way to the car began talking to another gentleman whose name, rank, and picture I did not get unfortunately. He collects a lot of Civil War memorabilia and was full of information. We spent about another 20 min. with him and missed the 11am demonstration. But that was okay because there was another one at 1pm.

This next living history demonstration was the 4th Maryland Confederate Light Artillery (http://www.4thmarylandlightartillery.com/military.html) who were camped in the park at Pitzer Woods. Located at this site stands the monument to Gen. James Longstreet who served under Gen. Robert E. Lee. Not far beyond this monument was the camp where we were greeted by Private Shawn Saez. Their camp had an entirely different setup and he explained that generally an infantry unit is constantly on the move, carrying everything on their backs, and set up wherever they plop for the night. Artillery units, however, are pretty much set in one location for a bit and nearly all their belongings are carried on the wagons pulling the cannons. Shortly Gunner Robert Candler joined us, and both men spent quite a bit of time describing things from the Confederate camp side. This unit is a family-oriented group with many family members involved, and a couple of the women are even in uniform as soldiers manning the Parrot Cannon.

Before long it was time for the demonstration and we walked across the street to the open field. As it so happens the same park ranger welcomed us and introduced Capt. Jean Buchen who proceeded to explain the inner workings of the artillery unit as the soldiers prepared for the demonstration. One of the boys passed around one of the shells so we could feel just how heavy it was, and once again they would be firing blanks and we were advised to cover our ears. Everyone has their place and assignment in an artillery unit and soon all were prepared and ready. Glad they told us to cover our ears!












Afterwards they invited everyone to ask questions and to get a closer look at the cannon. During the entire demonstration there was a very distinguished looking gentleman in a slightly different uniform standing off to the side. At the end as he passed by, I asked him who he was and his role. As it turns out he was the Lt. Col. and is in charge of making sure everything runs smoothly and correctly. I chatted with him for quite a bit while Russ was talking with Shawn.

We’ll discuss the rest of our week here and the Visitor’s Center in the next blog entry.

Family Ties

As we all grow older, it seems we cherish time with family more than when we were younger. Maybe it’s because we’re wiser or more nostalgic, or maybe it’s just because we’re not around them as much…tee hee. Over the last couple years this lifestyle has afforded us the opportunity to spend time with family members we hadn’t seen in years. This past week was the third summer we have spent visiting with Russ’ sister, Terri, and her family. She and Bill have a beautiful home where they’ve lived for the past 32 years, and this is the first time we’ve visited when the hydrangea bushes were in full bloom…simply gorgeous.

Their three grown kids always make an extra effort to drop by several times while we’re there to visit with us. Kristi and her boyfriend, Erick, were leaving for a brief Florida vacation a couple days after we arrived but she made sure to drop by so we could meet Erick, something we had missed doing last year. We actually saw them a couple times before they left town, and he seems like a really nice young man.

Terri baby sits Billy’s son, Josh, a few days a week, and picks up his brother, Will, from pre-school in the afternoons, watching them until one of their parents picks them up after work. We were in town for Josh’s birth last year and he will turn one next month…they grow up so fast! Will soon will be four, and Russ is his buddy, sharing a love of the movie Cars. Russ has a Cars/Disney “map” on his laptop, and Will loved looking at that with his Uncle Russ.

Their other son, Matthew, aka Boo, got engaged a few months ago to his longtime girlfriend, Taylor. (That's Boo pictured at left with his Aunt Mary Ellen & Taylor is in the group photo lower right.) We stopped by their place for a brief visit one night, and saw Boo several other times as he usually stops by the house around lunchtime. They also came over Memorial Day for a great barbecue. There’s always plenty of food and drink! Bill’s the BBQ master but we had Terri take this picture of us as a joke…tee hee! Bill’s brother, Mike, and his wife, Mary Ellen, came over for the day, as did Billy and Maggie with the boys. The pool was open but the water was a little too chilly for nearly everyone but the dogs. But Terri cooled down the jacuzzi so the little ones could use it as the pool for the day. Here are a few photos from the festivities:



















Russ’ mom still lives with Terri and just celebrated her 91st birthday this month. She spends most of her time in her room either watching TV or sleeping but did manage to come out for some dessert on Memorial Day. Alzheimer’s is such a cruel disease that robs the person and their family of so much. She really doesn’t know who anyone is anymore, not even Terri. She is otherwise in relatively good health, not taking medications for anything. However she did give us a scare the day before we left. Wed. morning she refused to get out of bed complaining of severe pain in her ankle and not able to walk or even stand. We tried sitting her up on the edge of her bed but even the slightest touch to that area of her leg would send her into pleas to stop. We knew she hadn’t fallen out of bed because she would not have been able to get herself back up. We let her lie back down while Terri wrestled with what to do. It was possible that the next day she’d be fine but if something was seriously wrong, you didn’t want to wait too long. Finally Terri decided to call 911, and the ambulance took mom to the ER. Terri had made arrangements for Billy to come get Josh, and Russ, Terri, and I followed the ambulance to the hospital. We arrived about noon, and the ER was packed with people who had been waiting several hours for a room. Terri knew one of the nurses and we were fortunate enough to get mom into a curtained area while we waited. The doctor on call checked her over and though she was running a very slight temp, could really find no cause for her obvious pain when he touched her ankle and lower leg. He decided he’d take some x-rays but in the meantime, Terri asked him to give her something for the pain. Once he did, she was out like a light, looking so small, helpless, and frail. Russ and I went back to the house for a bit and returned just in time for them to have secured her an actual room. It was now about 6:15pm, only 6 hours later…luckier than most. Once she was settled in the room, we all left, and it was a little emotional for us. We considered staying another day but Terri said that the last time she was in the hospital a few years ago, mom had been basically comatose for three days after they gave her meds and figured that’s what would happen again. We knew she was in good hands and decided there was nothing more we could do so planned to hit the road the next morning, stopping by the hospital for one last visit on the way out of town. When Russ and I walked into her room at 9am the next morning, she still appeared to be sleeping. Russ bent over and said “Mom, it’s Russ and Susan”, at which time she opened her eyes and said “Well, I’ve been waiting for you two” (though we really doubt that). Much to our surprise she was alert and rather chipper though irritated she was in the hospital. She remembered nothing from the day before, which isn’t surprising, and was the best we had seen her the entire week. We tried explaining to her why she was there, and when Russ felt her leg and ankle, she looked at him like he was nuts and said “that’s my leg, what are you doing?” There was no pain. Her roommate mentioned that the doctor had been in earlier talking to her, and overheard him say that she had some congestion in her lungs. It was just such a relief to both of us to see her awake, alert, and in rare form. She’ll stay in the hospital a couple of days to keep an eye on what they think is bronchitis and have a physical therapist come in to evaluate her, too.

Feeling much better, we hit the road for Gettysburg but planned to make a brief stop at Valley Forge on the way. Valley Forge National Historical Park (http://www.nps.gov/vafo/) commemorates the Dec. 1777 – June 1778 winter encampment of the Continental Army consisting of nearly 12,000 men under the command of Gen. George Washington. After watching the 18 min. film presented by the National Park Service, we toured through the museum that is full of displays and artifacts showing what life was like in the camp. We were amazed at just how heavy a musket rifle really is! Gives one an even greater appreciation for what those soldiers endured. This particular location had been chosen because the army was close enough to keep pressure on the British troops but far enough to prevent a surprise attack by them.

We headed back to the RV to take the self-guided tour route through the park. Dotted along the route are replicated huts, memorials, monuments, and markers. One of the largest of these is the National Memorial Arch, a very impressive site that was dedicated in 1917 commemorating the “patience and fidelity” of the soldiers who wintered at Valley Forge.

Driving through the Pennsylvania Columns towards Washington’s Headquarters, we passed this imposing statue of Gen. Anthony Wayne who commanded the PA troops. Once reaching the parking lot to Washington’s Headquarters, we discovered that the house was actually situated at the base of the hill where the RV could not go. Russ stayed with the dogs in the coach while I ran part way down the hill to get a couple pictures.

It was time to get back on the road but we’re glad we made this stop to learn a little more about America’s history.