Saturday, August 8, 2009

Hiking the River

*New critters we’ve seen on our 2009 trip so far: black bears, grizzly bears, elk, fox, wolf, moose, beavers, groundhog, prairie dogs, big horn sheep, buffalo (bison), white tail deer, chipmunks, pronghorn, burros, pika, moose, Uinta ground squirrel, mountain goats, mule deer, longhorn beetle, otters, northern whiptail lizard, jackrabbit, rock squirrels, collared lizard
*New birds we’ve seen on our 2009 trip so far: bald eagles, golden eagles, wild turkeys, osprey, western meadowlark, mountain bluebird, sandhill cranes, Canadian geese, American white pelicans, trumpeter swans, killdeer, common merganser, great blue heron, raven, yellow-headed blackbird, Brewer’s blackbird, brown-headed cowbird, double-crested cormorant, Clark’s nutcracker, common goldeneye, white-breasted nuthatch, Steller’s jay, black-chinned hummingbird, Cassin’s finch, Cassin’s kingbird, peregrine falcon
*National Parks/Monuments visited on 2009 trip so far: 26
*State Parks visited on 2009 trip so far: 4


Around 9am on Wed. we pulled out of the Ruby Inn Campground heading 166 miles to our next destination, Zion National Park (www.nps.gov/zion). There are two routes to Zion from Bryce Canyon. The short route requires a tunnel escort through the park and unhooking our tow vehicle as well as a $25 escort fee. The other route, about 81 miles further, also allowed for a short detour to visit Cedar Breaks National Monument (www.nps.gov/cebr). The park road through Cedar Breaks is only 5 miles long but provides a number of turnouts enabling you to enjoy the view into the canyon. More importantly the route we chose allowed us to enter the park on the north end and drive south to its main entrance. Hwy 143 out of Panguitch through Cedar City is another one of those scenic highways not to be missed. Over the course of 30 miles, we climbed over 4,000 feet to an elevation of over 10,600 feet, a new high for us. Although Cedar Breaks was pretty, it is one of the few places we visited this year where we would probably not return to see again. About half an hour after leaving the park, we merged onto I-15, the first time we had been on an interstate in almost 2,300 miles. Our 31 mile trip down I-15 dumped us off about 20 miles from the south entrance to Zion NP.

Somewhere along the line our original 7 day reservation for Zion became 5 days when we decided to utilize the campground inside the park (then later shortened to 3 days because of the high temperatures). Watchman Campground has electric only at most campsites and no sewer or water hookups. This really presented no problem for us as we are quite capable in going a week with the water we carry in our fresh water tank as well as our black and gray water tank capacities.

Our site at Watchman was perfect. A large pull-thru, shaded most of the morning by the cliffs, shaded most of the afternoon by tall cottonwood trees, and still provided easy access for satellite reception. Towering in the background was a gorgeous view of The Watchman, a giant rock formation so named for its location as it seems to watch over the entrance to the canyon. After we got settled, we drove over to the Visitor Center to pick up maps, brochures, Jr. Ranger booklets, and get the lay of the land. Spring through fall the Zion Canyon Scenic Drive is accessible only by shuttle bus so we checked out the logistics and times of that.

The next day we hopped the shuttle for the 6-1/2 mile scenic drive. Before the shuttle system began in 2000, nearly 5,000 cars, motorhomes, and buses visited the park daily with only 450 parking spaces to accommodate them. Zion does an excellent job with the shuttle system with buses running every 10-15 min. eliminating traffic jams and parking hassles, and the drivers bring the canyon to life with their narrative. (An interesting tidbit…a number of movies were filmed at Zion NP including Butch Cassidy & the Sundance Kid, Electric Horseman, and the Eiger Sanction.)

Our goal was to ride to the end of the loop at Temple of Sinawava and take the Riverside Walk. A friend in St. Louis had told us about this 2 mile roundtrip hike that is a paved trail following the Virgin River through the narrow canyon. At the end of the paved trail, you have the option to turn around and go back, or to continue walking down the river through an area called The Narrows….in the river! We chose this option and feel it’s probably one of the best things we’ve ever done. We had been advised by a park ranger to wear hiking boots, or tennis shoes at the bare minimum, because the rocks are jagged and slippery. Russ carried the back pack, I had the camera around my neck encased in a Ziploc bag, and armed with our walking sticks we started down the river along with dozens of other people. We were extremely happy we had the walking sticks as we saw a number of people struggling to stay upright between slippery rocks and at times quick currents. We walked about half mile up the river with it reaching our knees at times. Sheer cliffs reaching over 1,000 feet surrounded us on either side. About 300 yards in front of us around the bend we could see people with the river up around their waist. Since we didn’t bring a change of clothes, we turned back. Next time we’ll go further because we’ll have a better understanding and be better prepared possibly even wearing my swimming suit!











By the time we finished our walk back to the shuttle stop, I wouldn’t say our tennis shoes were dry, but they weren’t sopping wet and we were able to board the bus with no worries. On the way back we stopped at the Weeping Rock trailhead and hiked this ½ mile roundtrip trail. Though a short and paved walk, it was steep, ending at a rock alcove with dripping springs and hanging gardens. By the time we reached the top, the benches were a welcome sight for a brief rest. Back on the bus we decided to skip the Emerald Pools trails and head on back to the RV.

Early the next morning we brought our completed Jr. Ranger booklets to the Visitor Center and took the pledge becoming official Zion NP Jr. Rangers. We had also decided to take the shuttle bus loop without getting off this time, just enjoying the scenery and the narration. We passed many named rock formations such as The West Temple, Altar of Sacrifice, Court of the Patriarchs, The Great White Throne, and The Organ. The driver pointed out a very strenuous hike to Angels Landing that ends at a summit high above Zion Canyon. However, the last half mile follows a steep, narrow ridge only 5 feet across with a drop of a couple thousand feet on each side and a chain rope in the middle for folks going both ways to hang onto. We could actually see people walking along that steep trail, and though the view is undoubtedly spectacular, it’s not something we’ll be doing any time soon, if ever.










After returning to the RV, we gathered up the dogs for the 13 mile drive along the Zion-Mt. Carmel Highway towards the East entrance of the park. This scenic drive meanders along several switchbacks and takes you through the tunnel we discussed earlier. What was amazing was how the scenery of the canyon changed once you crossed through to the other side. It was like an entirely different canyon but just as spectacular. A prime example is Checkerboard Mesa, which is made of Navajo sandstone and has two sets of lines forming a checkerboard pattern. The horizontal lines were formed from layers of windblown sands built up over time into sand dunes that were buried and hardened over millions of years. The vertical lines are actually shallow cracks caused by stress and erosion on the rock surface, and from what we read, a rare occurrence.



















Tomorrow we leave for the north rim of the Grand Canyon, a place neither of us has ever been. We’ve could have stayed longer exploring Zion NP, but it will have to wait till next time.

Tuesday, August 4, 2009

Giddy Up!

*New critters we’ve seen on our 2009 trip so far: beavers, groundhog, prairie dogs, big horn sheep, buffalo (bison), white tail deer, chipmunks, pronghorn, burros, pika, moose, Uinta ground squirrel, mountain goats, mule deer, fox, moose, black bears, elk, grizzly bear, wolf, longhorn beetle, otters, northern whiptail lizard, jackrabbit
*New birds we’ve seen on our 2009 trip so far: wild turkeys, osprey, western meadowlark, mountain bluebird, sandhill cranes, Canadian geese, American white pelicans, trumpeter swans, killdeer, bald eagles, golden eagle, common merganser, great blue heron, raven, yellow-headed blackbird, Brewer’s blackbird, brown-headed cowbird, double-crested cormorant, Clark’s nutcracker, common goldeneye, white-breasted nuthatch, Steller’s jay
*National Parks/Monuments visited on 2009 trip so far: 24
*State Parks visited on 2009 trip so far: 4


Our trip from Torrey to Bryce Canyon National Park (http://www.nps.gov/brca) consisted of 113 miles along State Hwy. 12, one of the great scenic byway roads in the country. It would take us to elevations approaching 10,000 feet with many opportunities to pull over and enjoy the scenery. We would pass through Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, skirt Escalante National Forest & State Park, Kodachrome Basin State Park, and weave in and out of the Dixie National Forest. It was a spectacular drive, although a bit apprehensive during our drive along Boulder Mountain. The included photos do not do justice to how narrow the road that traverses the top of this ridge for a number of miles really is. They also do not adequately portray the straight dropoff on each side with minimal to no shoulder! Needless to say Russ did not have an opportunity to enjoy much of the scenery along this portion of the trip. My take on it is that it would be scary just in a car let alone our bus and tow vehicle! Descending the grade into Boulder City in second and third gear was no easy task as signs indicated more than a 14% in grade variation.



















Once this exciting portion of the trip was over, the remaining 60 miles to Bryce Canyon were
very beautiful and luckily uneventful. We settled into Ruby’s Inn RV Park & Campground (http://www.rubysinn.com/rv_camp.html) mid-afternoon, and by pulling into our campsite instead of backing in were able to get satellite reception. Later that evening we headed up to the Visitor Center to get the lay of the land and
collect all the pertinent information. We returned to the RV, had a late dinner, and made plans for the remainder of our stay.

The number of nights we would spend at Bryce Canyon has always been somewhat of a variable. While some destinations were set in stone, we felt it was necessary to create a few flexible time periods to leave room for adjustment during this three month journey. Our stay at Bryce was originally scheduled for 7 nights, fairly consistent with our stay at other national parks. At one point we changed this stop to 5 nights, and after our recent change concerning Arches NP, further reduced our stay here to 3 nights. Ah, but we found another change in store for us while checking the weather forecast for our next stop. With temperatures in excess of 100 degrees at Zion National Park, we decided to extend our Bryce Canyon stay to 5 days and cut down our Zion visit to 3 days as weather in Bryce was 20 degrees cooler.

On Sat. morning we headed up to the Bryce Canyon Lodge built in 1925, and from there headed out to the rim walk. As we reached the rim, the misnamed Bryce Canyon opened up in front of us. Misnamed because it was not carved by a single river source as are most canyons but rather through wind, water, and ice erosion. This erosion forms quite an array of fantastic shapes, pinnacles of rock, called hoodoos.

Later that evening we returned to the Lodge for a ranger talk called “Astronomy Through the Ages”. This informative one hour slide presentation ended with the group heading to the Visitor Center to view various constellations, planets, star clusters, and moons through 3 different telescopes supplied by the National Park Service. Although we were close to having a full moon, and about 40% cloud coverage, we were still able to see amazing things in the night sky. You see, Bryce Canyon is perhaps the best location to view the night sky in all of America. The view from one telescope contained a globular cluster of over one million stars! Think about that for a minute. One million of our suns contained in the lens of a single telescope. Of course, we were not able to count them all and trust that the ranger was not jerking our chain. We also viewed the double star Albiero, the Andromeda Galaxy, and a view of our own moon that was so clear and vivid that you could actually see the mountains on its surface. Simply amazing stuff!

Sunday turned out to be a day of rest as we had actually been visiting or traveling to national parks since May 28 with very few down days. Our campsite was well-shaded, and with temperatures in the low 80s, it made for an enjoyable day.

On Mon. we arose at 5:30 a.m., drove a short distance to the canyon rim, and watched the sun rise from Inspiration Point. From there we headed the remaining 14 miles up the park road to Rainbow Point, took a short hike, and started the return trip to our campground stopping at a number of overlooks including Black Birch Canyon, Ponderosa Canyon, Agua Canyon, and Natural Bridge, some of which had short hiking trails we took advantage of. We finished our return by stopping at Sunset Point, Swamp Canyon, and Sunrise Point.














The next day, as Russ remained behind in the RV, I took a horseback ride lasting a little over 3 hours offered by Canyon Trail Rides (http://www.canyonrides.com/). Lucky Strike was chosen as my horse, and the ride started promptly at 8am, descending 2 miles to the canyon floor, with an elevation change of 1,000 feet. The morning air was cool so I wore a sweatshirt layered over a short sleeved shirt and removed halfway through the ride when we stopped for break. There were 5 of us in my group led by our tour guide, Tom, along the Peek-A-Boo Loop Trail, and I was fortunate enough to ride directly behind him. The path took us into the heart of Bryce Canyon passing the Wall of Windows, Silent City, Bristle Cone Pine Trees, through two natural tunnels, and a section of switchbacks. Peek-A-Boo is also a hiking trail, and we passed a number of hikers along the way. We all agreed we were happy to be making this trek on horseback! The beauty of these rock formations and the canyon up close was incredible.















Tomorrow is another travel day as we head to Zion NP.